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There are some things I
will never forget about
my trip to South
America. I will never forget the
garage where we made 'asados'
(barbecue). I will never forget
how we sat beside the pool and
hogged the barbecued
succulent marinated meat and
chicken with salads during that
winter evening in May. I will
never forget the apricot tree in
the garden and the narrow
streets leading to the sea. I will
never forget the handyman
who looked like Robert de
Nero and talked to my niece in
fluent Spanish about his love
affair with a rich old lady. He
later married her and drove by
to show off his new Mercedes.
But wait, I think this is
getting a little confusing. Let
me start from the beginning.
When I heard about a trip
to South America I thought of
drug lords, gang wars,
kidnappings and banana
republics. But when I heard
about Argentina I thought of
Tango, I thought of Eva
Peron… the glamorous wife of
President Juan Domingo
Perón, immortalised in Evita
by Madonna and our own
Sharon Prabhakar. I also
thought of Victoria Ocampo,
the muse of Rabindranath
Tagore.
When we reached Paris
from Bombay it was 8 PM in
the evening. The evening sun
was bright and there was no
sign of night fall. Such are the
summers in Europe! We were
to catch our flight to Argentina
next evening. So we had one
whole day to ourselves. We
decided to take a quick tour of
the ever romantic city of Paris,
atop the red tourist buses. I
had missed ‘Mona Lisa’ the last
time. So this time my singular |
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aim was to catch a glimpse of
her. We finally landed in
Louvre, the world famous
museum which was home to
the three great ladies —Venus
de Milo, Victory of
Samothrace, and Mona Lisa.
But I was interested only in
Mona Lisa and rushed through
the corridors not paying much
attention to the other works of
art. When I finally arrived in
front of the famous painting I
was filled with a sense of
anticlimax. It was such a
nondescript, small painting
with a huge crowd in front of it
that I could only glance at it for
just a moment. I was quickly
pushed away by the crowd.
I promised myself that next
time I will not be swayed by
publicity. I will try to act like a
true connoisseur of art. We did
our rounds of the usual tourist
spots. We took the stairs to
climb the Eiffel Tower and
panted our way to the top. But
it was worth the effort. The city
below looked beautiful and I
was reminded of the movie
‘Sleepless in Seattle’ where Meg
Ryan and Tom Hanks meet for
the first time atop the Eiffel
Tower. On our way down we
met some Punjabi hawkers
selling cheap imitation shades.
Soon the police arrived and
they scurried away.
Our bus crossed the Seine
River and took us through the
Royal Palace, the Paris opera,
Arc de Triomphe on Champs
Elysées, Galeries Lafayette,
Notre Dame, Palais De Justice
including Ste. Chapelle and
the Conciergerie. When we
finished the tour, it was time
for us to move towards our
final destination, Argentina.
It took us thirteen hours by
a non stop flight, to reach
Buenos Aires from Paris. I had |
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heard about the recession in
Argentina and was expecting an
impoverished, beat up city. But I was
surprised to see that this place could
give Paris a run for its money. We
passed by the cafés, the purple
jacaranda flowers draped over the
sidewalks, stylish and beautiful
porteños (residents of Buenos Aires
are also known as children of the
port) walking purposefully past the
newspaper stands and candy kiosks
and handsome early-20th-century
stone facades. On the way we stopped
for a bite. We ordered delicious
'empanadas,’ which are made of a
thin circular shaped dough patty over
stuffing. Just about any food or
combination can be made as a filling
like meat, fish, vegetables, cheese,
fruits and even the left-overs. For
dessert we had ‘dulce de leche.’ This
milky caramel syrup is the flavour of
the city. We drank ‘Mate’ which is the
typical Argentine infusion drink. It's
made with yerba mate (a local herb)
and boiling water, with or without
sugar. Initially we had a bit of a
problem because we did not know the
local language ‘Castellano’, a dialect
of Spanish. But finally we did get
what we wanted.
Early next day we set out, walking
on the Plaza de Mayo where the very |
famous "Casa Rosada" president´s
house (The pink house) is located -
the scene of Evita´s famous balcony
address to the crowds below. The
Plaza de Mayo is the city center.
Surrounding it is the Government
House, the Metropolitan Cathedral,
and the Cabildo (town hall). We also
saw the giant obelisk on 9th of July
Avenue (apparently the widest street
in the world).
Our next destination was the
Sunday Flea Market in San Telmo
and the Sunday antiques fair at the
Plaza Dorego. We picked up some
knick knacks and watched the street
artists paint portraits.
Next in our itinerary was the zoo.
This 18 hectare zoo has more than
300 species of birds, mammals and
reptiles. It provided us a very good
opportunity to see native animals like:
alpacas, guanacos and llamas.
Perhaps the most colorful area in
Buenos Aires is La Boca (the Mouth),
which sits along the port. Here an
assortment of brightly painted low
houses made of wood and metal burst
upon the eyes. The story is that, a lot
of immigrants lived in the area in the
late 1800s and worked in the meatpacking
plants and warehouses.
Apparently after they worked to |
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spruce up the shipping barges at the
port, they took home the leftover
paint and splashed it on the
corrugated-metal siding of their own
houses.The main street here is
Caminito, where many artists set up
stalls selling paintings or crafts and
typical Italian cantinas. The other
specialty of this area is its football
team ‘Boca Juniors’ where the famous
football star Diego Maradona started
his career.
As we walked down the road we
saw a small crowd. A group of street
musicians were playing soulful music
and selling their CDs. Soon after, two
women in purple dress and an older |
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man started to tango on the street.
The atmosphere was electrifying. The
music was foot tapping and the crowd
stood mesmerised.
The Tango was originally a dance
of lonely sailors, craftsmen and
working class people. It cannot be
danced individually; the woman
seduces and the man leads. He
protects and supports her, while she
elaborates and outlines the dance
breaking balance and resting on his |
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