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An Architectural Marvel
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Devaki
Shashikala,
Lecturer,Dept.of Psychology |
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That
day we were going to Colombo. The flight was from
Chennai to Colombo (then it was Madras). As usual
the flight was delayed indefinitely due to a technical
snag. We booked one room and put all our baggage
there and decided to go for a visit to near by
area. Since we all were acquainted in shopping
at Bangalore we thought it is wastage of time
to go inside Chennai. So we decided to go to Kanchipuram
which is about 75 k.m from Chennai. Then we thought
we should included Mahabalipuram (58km). Then
we decided to go both the places as our flight
was about 7-7.30 pm we had about 10hrs in our
hand.
'Decisions' it is such
a crucial thing as future is very hard to predict
as no body has seen that unforeseen future. We
booked a car from Chennai airport. From airport
we headed for Kanchipuram. Kanchipuram is a small,
rural town about 75-km from Chennai in the state
of Tamil Nadu.. On our way we saw Sri Perumbudure
where our former Prime Minister Sri Rajiv Gandhi
got assassinated by the LTTE. In a hours time
we reached Kanchipuram. Kanchipuram is like an
abode of south Indian temple structure because
of magnificent temples of unique architectural
beauty bearing eloquent testimony to its glorious
Dravidian heritage. Where ever you see you see
different shapes of that Dravidian style temple
structure.
Kanchipuram is known as
one of India's Seven Sacred cities. It is the
City of a thousand temples, the capital of the
Pallavas, the Cholas and the Rayas of Vijayanagar.
During the 6th and 7th centuries, the Pallavas
built some of the best temples in the city. The
city was also a great seat of learning. Sri Sankaracharya,
Appar, Siruthonder and the great Budddhist Bhikku
lived, and worked With the Sankara Mutt acting
as the hub of Hindu activities and the temples,
Kanchipuram is one of the most highly visited,
and can rightfully be called the " Religious Capital
of SouthIndia".
All the religious cities
in India support one of the two sects in Hinduism
- Vaishnavism and Shaivism, but Kanchipuram has
blended itself equally to both the sects, dividing
itself into Vishnu Kanchi, surrounding the Varadaraja
Temple, and Shiva Kanchi, surrounding the Ekambareshwar
(also spelt as Ekambareshwa) Temple, while the
Kamakshi Amman Temple stands in between as a place
of Shakti worship. Kamakshi Amman Temple stands
in between as a place of Shakti worship.
We first went to a temple
of Kamakshi Amman Temple.India has three main
cities where the Goddess Shakti is worshipped.
Kanchipuram holds the most important rank among
the three. In the same order, the three places
are Kanchipuram, where the Goddess Kamakshi is
worshipped, Madurai, where the Goddess Meenakshi
is worshipped, and Kashi, where the deity is 'Visaalakshi'.
The main tower over the
sanctum (Vimanam) of the temple is gold plated.
Also of significance is the Golden Chariot in
this temple. The Golden Chariot is taken in a
procession around the temple on Friday evenings
around 7.00 p.m. This temple also features an
Art Gallery with pictures depicting the history
of Sri Adishankaracharya and the Shankara Mutt.and
.
Apart from Kamakshi temple,
we went Kumara Kottam temple, Varadaraja temple,
Ulahalanda , Perumal temple. Unfortunately we
found all the temples closed. I don't know whether
it is from ancient times or according to convenience
both in Tamilnadu and in Colombo the temples are
closed from 10 am to 6 p.m. Unfortunately we arrived
there around 10.30/11o'clock.So even if our repeated
request neither the priest nor the temple authority
opened the door. So we made a bedha parikrama
i.e just went around the temple .
Kanchi is also known centre
of the finest silk sarees made in the country.The
taxi driver was very aware that we are tourists
so he took us to the silk saree shop. It was a
cooperative shop belongs to the weavers association.
The sarees were very beautiful with all the delicate
designs of Kanjiveram sarees. Since we were on
our way from colombo we have got more dollars
with us rather than Indian currency note. So I
postponed the idea of buying one and we could
not found any money changer nearby. As we were
time constrained so we left for Mahabalipuram.
Mahabalipuram, located
58 km from Chennai, I read about Mahabalipuram
in my history lessons. Seeing something in reality
and reading about it in books is totally a different
experience. Stone sculptures of Mahabalipuram
and the monolithic five ratha temples are on the
sea shore on the golden sands. The Temples with
blue seas on its backdrop was very beautiful.
The Five Rathas are the
rock-cut temples in Mahabalipuram carved in the
shape of a chariot. Built during the Pallava period,
the temples were buried under the sand and were
founded by the British some 200 years back. The
five rathas are called the Draupadi Ratha, Dharamraja
Ratha, Bhima Ratha, Arjuna Ratha and Nakula-Sahadeva
Ratha, named after the five Pandavas and their
wife of Mahabharata. The Draupadi Ratha is dedicated
to Goddess Durga. Within the temple, the goddess
is shown standing on the lotus with her devotees
worshipping her on their knees. The chiseled lion
protects the shrine from outside. Behind the Draupadi
Ratha is the Arjuna Ratha. Dedicated to Lord Shiva,
temple also has the carved idol of the Nandi Bull,
Shiva's Mount. Many gods and goddesses are carved
on the exterior wall of the temple. Bhima Ratha
is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The idol of Vishnu
in Seshashyai Mudra is within the walls of the
temple. Dharamraja Ratha is the tallest and farthest
of all the temples. You can see the images of
several gods on the walls of the temple including
Surya and Indra. Nakula-Sahadeva Ratha is dedicated
to Lord Indra. A finely sculpted elephant, symbolic
representation of his mount, is near the temple.
Arjuna's Penance is a
relief carving on the huge rock measuring 30 m
X 12 m. The themes of carvings are the animals,
gods and demi-gods along with famous legendry
tales from Hindu classical Panchatantra books.
The massive upright crevice bifurcates the rock
panel and is proficiently included into the sculpture
with water flowing down the crevice originally
representative of holy River Ganga.
Here I found a boy selling
a few small Ganesh idols. The striking feature
in these idols were they are either freely standing
or sitting posture and all of them had got distinct
free hands and legs which appealed me a lot. I
bought one of them-a very tiny of about 3 to 4
inch tall idol. The idol was so cute I could not
stop hugging it. My husband started teasing me
for that. With lots of laughter and fun we returned
from there.
On our way to Chennai
in the middle of the high way the axle of the
taxi developed some problem. The driver tried
his level best to get it done but failed to do
so. We tried to stop the bus, the passers by vehicles,
taxies even we requested the truck drivers to
give us lift. But no body gave us Lift. We waited
and waited for about 2 hours. Neither the taxi
got repaired nor did we get another vehicle to
reach airport. In the meanwhile a van generous
enough to give us lift. As we boarded it we told
him about our flight and told him that we were
left about one hour in hand to catch the flight.
I thought we will manage to catch the flight.
The van driver could feel our sentiment as common
man in Chennai does not understand Hindi or English.
But he could make out our urgency. So he suggested
a short cut to reach Airport. My goodness, what
a horrible route he suggested. We just kept on
rocking shaking inside the van. The only thing
I was doing was praying god and literally 1000
and one time I must had been to the airport in
my imagination. Not to say rest of us were equally
in that frantic state. 1000 and one time I must
had been to the airport in my imagination. Not
to say rest of us were equally in that frantic
state .
After a good 2hr ride
we reached in the outskirt of Chennai. Now to
enter we need to cross a level crossing. If I
had wings then I would have flown in one breath
to the flight. But alas we were such wingless
creatures....a small pawn in the hands of that
almighty may the almighty who I was cradling in
my arms from Mahabalipuram to till that time!
As we were about to cross
the level crossing suddenly the gate got closed
for which we had to wait……not one or two minutes……….its
about 20 minutes flat……And about 10-12 trains
passed in that time. All of us still thought to
make it. Our van ran…ran to its full speed. We
saw the Airport in the horizon. We approached
nearer and nearer and we felt we made it. Our
van stopped and we heard the taking off of a flight
.From the backdrop of airport a huge flight rose
blinking its purple violet green blue lights and
bidding goodbye. I said, look our plane is above
our head. Least to speak for a while we felt so
drained that we could not move an inch for minutes
together.
As all of us had only
dollars so in our own country we bought tickets
in Us dollar and paid more money to buy the same
ticket again. Thanks to the credit cards, debit
cards and thanks to that tiny gadget called mobile
phone. If all these would have at that time this
write up would have completely different |
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